March 2025 Tea Subscription

The first tea this month is one of the famous cultivars of Wuyi rock teas. While the central areas of China were famous for tea since the Tang dynasty (618-907), Jian Zhou (建州) in southern China (today’s Jian Ou in Fujian province) was not known for tea. Even so, the Zhang family in that area held influential power as the largest tea producer and merchant. Following the footsteps of his father, Zhang Ting Hui (张廷晖) established a large tea garden around Phoenix Mountain (凤凰山) on the east of the Jian Brooke (建溪), reportedly the largest tea garden of the Tang dynasty based on records. The collapse of the Tang dynasty led to a period of upheaval and division with powerful warlords forming their own countries. Known as the period of Ten Kingdoms, the Kingdom of Min was established in that area from 909 to 945. Zhang Ting Hui gifted the tea garden to the King of Min. This was the start of a long period of 458 years of royal patronage, first to the King of Min, and continued to other sovereigns as the area changed overlords and dynasties, from Southern Tang (937–976) to Later Zhou dynasty (951–960) to Song dynasty (960–1279), a dynasty that would eventually reunite China, bringing all of the southern states into its control, and finally to the Ming dynasty, paying tribute to a total of 42 emperors. Because the garden is located at the north of the Kingdom of Min, it was named North Royal Garden (北苑). It was also the first tea department established under official capacity, and was called the Dragon’s Tea Factory (龙焙, with the word ‘龙’ for dragon signifying royal property and the word ‘焙’ meaning tea factory).

The long period of royal support of the garden allowed tea styles and quality to flourish. While cake-style teas fist appeared in the Tang dynasty, those neatly imprinted with the shapes of dragons and phoenix started appearing during the Song dynasty. Termed Long Tuan Feng Bing (龙团凤饼), these mythical animals representing royalty and solidified its position as royal tribute teas. This continued till the Ming dynasty when compressed tea was abolished. Ever since then, tea cultivation at North Royal Garden took a different direction to focus on individual shapes of tea leaves and strong infusion from loose leaf brewing. The cultivars which survived till today included Shui Xian (水仙) and Dwarf Wulong (aka Ai Jiao Wu Long), both of which were transplanted to Wuyi Mountain in the north during the end of the Qing dynasty. Ai Jiao Wu Long has other names of Soft Stem Green Heart Wu Long (软枝青心乌龙) and Small Leaf Wu Long (小叶乌龙). It was also transplanted to Taiwan during the same time and became the world-famous Dong Ding Wu Long (冻顶乌龙). [The term Wu Long here does not refer to the processing style but rather the name of the cultivar.]

The story of Dong Ding wulong bears a certain resemblance to the story of Scarlet Robe (大红袍). In 1855, Lin Feng Chi (林凤池) was a local scholar in today’s Lu Gu Township (鹿谷乡) of Taiwan who had to continue his higher-level examinations across the seas in Fujian. With the help of the local community, he managed to raise funds to take the examination, in which he successfully emerged as Ju Ren (举人), equivalent to Master’s degree in today’s context. To celebrate his success, his distant relatives in Fujian gifted him 36 stocks of local tea variety which was the Soft Stem Green Heart Wu Long. He chose to plant some of these stocks himself, while distributing the remaining 24 stocks to the village sponsors back in Taiwan. With the area dominated by Dong Ding Mountain (冻顶山), the tea made from these stocks took its name. The Dong Ding tea we feature here is cultivated from a tea garden that received one of the initial stocks of tea, hence its name of Century Tea Garden.

We are brewing both the teas in our "Authority" zisha tea pot, at 90°C for 1.5 min, at 8 gm to 150 ml. Both the teas are oxidised to about 30-40%, as seen from the reddish rim around the brewed leaves. Both are medium roasted, but they present different colours when brewed - the Ai Jiao presents a darker orange tone whereas the Dong Ding presents a dark yellowish tone. The difference is due to the difference in leaf maturity, size and shape, allowing the Dong Ding to withstand higher roasting than the Ai Jiao. On the brewed leaves, it is interesting to compare the Ai Jiao Wu Long and the Dong Ding Wu Long. The Ai Jiao is of finer picking with smaller leaves whereas the Dong Ding is of coarser picking with larger and stiffer leaves. It is noteworthy that Dong Ding Wu Long technique requires a coarser picking to enable a longer roast. In the cup both teas carry a complex aromas of honey, baked sweet potatoes, roasted mangoes, sweet cranberries, baked strawberries and baked peach. The Dong Ding is round and smooth, whereas the Ai Jiao has a hint of cream and nut butter. We are brewing these teas thrice. 


Chinese always say that black tea is a drinkable antique. The last tea is indeed such an antique, being produced by tea company that was established during the founding of the Ming dynasty in year 1368. An incredible 650 years of history, the company is now helmed by the 19th generation descendant since the founder He De Hai (何德海). It is an Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, and definitely a witness to and heritage of human development. It started on a good footing, becoming a royal tribute tea during the 300 years of Ming dynasty and then 300 years of Qing dynasty. The tea demand rapidly expanded during these years, bringing the tea to Eurasian regions. The Great Tea Road gradually formed, starting from Wuyi mountain of Fujian towards Russia in the north and central Asian and eastern Europe in the west. During its peak, there were more than 260 sub-brands to cater to its numerous distribution lines. The Ming royal court deemed it as its representative brand, bestowing it a royal trademark in the form of a double red dragon for display on its tea packaging outside of the empire. 

Tang dynasty tea saint Lu Yu (陆羽) in his Classic of Tea (茶经) endorsed the superiority of the tea from that region, previously known as Xia Zhou (峡州, "山南以峡州上"). Historian Ouyang Xiu (欧阳修) of the Song dynasty sang praises of the tea, calling it the best tea according to the Classic of Tea ("陆羽茶经第一州"). Fast forward to modern era, the company established a tea research centre in 2013, incorporating modern methods of medicine and pharmacy in their tea processing. According to the company's introduction, the tea is made using a complex 77-step procedure.

Hunan (湖南) and Hubei (湖北) are the origin places for the making of Chinese black teas which are indeed fermented green tea in compressed forms of either cylinders or bricks. During ancient times, the fermentation allowed it to better preserve its flavour during the long journey along the Great Tea Road. The compact form allowed easier logistics and cheaper cost with need for lesser number of horses. While Yunnan Pu'er teas are famous, it is a rather recent invention in 1973. During the development research, Yunnan tea institute learned the techniques from Hunan and Hubei. The steps are generally similar, and what differentiates are the tea cultivar, the fermentation mold, the fermentation environment, and local practices. 

We have 3 tea bags of its loose black tea, each containing the fermented tea ready for pressing into shapes. The dry leaves smell like a blend of flowers, wood, seaweed laden with umami. Using a mug and 200 ml of 100°C water, we let the tea bag steep for 1 min before drinking with the tea bag still in the mug. The tea colour change to pale yellow by that time, releasing a seaweed aroma. The aroma is surprisingly clean, and smells nothing of the usual moist and moldy notes in commercial pu'er teas. Seaweed and flowers are forward, with a discernible sweetness and without any bitterness. The body is medium and the brew is vibrant, with lively tingling of the tea organic acids but without any sourness. The mouthfeel is a curious affair - with continuous steeping, there is a faint dryness on the tongue but yet, there is an oiliness to the brew that feels smooth. Overall an enjoyable and mild cup from hot to cool, this tea bag can be brewed again.


Enjoy your teas of March 2025!

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